Registration
If you are bringing a big group of people(10+) please let us know so we have some idea of numbers. Our wall can get a bit claustrophobic with big crowds! Saturday:
Registration at 9.30am.
Climbing to start by 10.15am
Climbing will finish by 5.00pm Entry Fee: €10
Sunday:
Start at 10am sharp
Finish by 4pm
Prize giving 5pm
CategoriesMale Advanced & Female Advanced This category is for anyone who has been climbing for over a year, and who is currently a student, or has graduated less than 1 year ago. They must enter the lead comp on Sunday, and hence must be competent at lead climbing. Male Beginner & Female Beginner This category will be open to climbers who are new to the sport and have been climbing for less than a year. Climbers in this category will be top roping routes, and will not be required to lead. Team Competition From the two competitions, a team score will be calculated which will be made up of the top 4 of your club in each category. So in order to have a full team you need to have a advanced male, advanced female, beginner male and beginner female. You can enter more than one of each and we will take the top scorers from each category then to make up your team score. Bouldering Competition - Saturday 26th
Rules - In order to score both hands must be on the marked finishing hand hold for three seconds - controled.
- You must stay within the marked area.Flagging outside of the marked area is allowed.
- The use of features is only allowed when specified. However flagging purely for the purposes of balance is allowed.
- For sit starts your ass must be the last part of your body to leave the ground.
- Unless you are spotting someone you must keep off the mats.
- The decisions of the organisers are final. If any disputes arise please contact a member of the NUIG Mountaineering Club committee and we will try to get the issue resolved.
- The use of resin, gloves and other such aids is prohibited. Chalk, liquid chalk and finger tape are permitted.
- Feet follow hands unless otherwise stated.
- Other competitors will mark your score sheet, although competition officials will supervise the session.
- Anyone found to be dishonest in their score keeping will be excluded from the rest of the event.
- An attempt starts as soon as you leave the ground.
- Excessive use of chalk is counter productive and is to be avoided.
- The use of plastic brushes is allowed and indeed encouraged. However the use of wire brushes is strictly prohibited.
- If a hold moves during an attempt, the competitor will be allowed to restart that attempt after the hold is tightened.
Scoring
There will be between 14 and 20 problems with grades varying between British 4c and 6c.
Each climber will have three attempts on each problem.
All problems will consist of A or B options and in these cases all competitors are free to attempt whichever option they so wish.
They are also free to try different options on different attempts.
For the A option on problems the scoring is as follows:
- 20 points for reaching and holding the top hold with one or both hands on 1st attempt
- 19 points for reaching and holding the top hold with one or both hands on 2nd attempt
- 18 points for reaching and holding the top hold with one or both hands on 3rd attempt
For the B option on problems the scoring is as follows:
- 10 points for reaching and holding the top hold with one or both hands on 1st attempt
- 9 points for reaching and holding the top hold with one or both hands on 2nd attempt
- 8 points for reaching and holding the top hold with one or both hands on 3rd attempt
For problems with options, the attempt number is the attempt at the problem and not just the option.So for example if the A option was attempted and failed on the first go and the B option was climbed successfully on the second go, 9 points are awarded even though it is the first attempt at that option.
Example 1:
1st attempt : Climber tries option A and fails
2nd attempt : Same climber tries option B and succeeds.
3rd attempt : Same climber tries option A again and fails.
The climber is awarded 9 points for the problem.
Example 2:
1st attempt : Climber tries option A and fails
2nd attempt : Same climber tries option B and succeeds.
3rd attempt : Same climber tries option A again and succeeds.
The climber is awarded 18 points for the problem
Example 3:
1st attempt : Climber tries option B and succeeds
2nd attempt : Same climber tries option A and succeeds.
The climber is awarded 19 points for the problem.
Example 4:
1st attempt : Climber tries option A and fails
2nd attempt : Same climber tries option A and fails.
3rd attempt : Same climber tries option A again and fails.
The climber is not awarded any points for the problem.
Example 5:
1st attempt : Climber tries option A and fails
2nd attempt : Same climber tries option A and fails.
3rd attempt : Same climber tries option B again and succeeds.
The climber is awarded 8 points for the problem.
Example 6:
1st attempt : Climber tries option B and succeeds
2nd attempt : Same climber tries option A and fails.
3rd attempt : Same climber tries option A again and fails.
The climber is awarded 10 points for the problem.
Lead/Top-Rope Competition - Sunday 27th Rules - For safety only a figure of 8 knot may be used for tying in, you will be asked to retie your knot if your appointed belayer is not satisfied that it is safe.
- It is your responsibility to be safe and competent enough to lead.
All those entering the lead climbing competition must have prior experience of leading and accept the dangers involved as a personal choice.
- You are personally responsible for your own harness which must be in a safe condition.
- NUIG Mountaineering Club will provide ropes and quick draws for the competition. Belayers will also be provided.
- Quickdraws will be left in the bolts, but every quickdraw must be clipped.
- You will be disqualified if a quickdraw is skipped.
- All snaplinks must be clipped in the correct manner, i.e. not back clipped. If you back clip or z clip you will not be allowed to continue until you rectify the problem.
- To score points for reaching a hold you must be in control of it. This means that if you jump or slap for a hold, touch it and fall you will not be awarded points. The judge’s decision is final in cases such as this.
- You will be allowed time to view the route at the start of the day.
- If poor belaying hinders the climber to a significant extent the climber will be allowed a short rest.
- Each climber will be expected to tie in and climb the route in less than 3 minutes. If necessary, a whistle will be blown to indicate the end of the allotted time, and the highest point at that time will be recorded.
- Each route will get progressively more difficult as you get higher.
- If there is a tie in a category there will be a tie breaker on a harder route.
Scoring Scoring for the lead/top-rope comp is based on how high up a route a climber gets. The higher you climb the more points you are awarded.
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